Panther chameleons are one of the prettiest chameleons. They are also know to be the most hardy of chameleons and the easiest for first time chameleon owners. The information here is only a brief description of what is required to care for your new chameleons and I would recommend you learn as much as possible to maintain that your chameleon be as happy as possible. Here are some web sights for further information on the Panther Chameleon.
ChameleonJournals.com
Chameleon Community Home Page

Housing Requirements: Babies can be kept in glass aquariums with a screen top. Juveniles, Sub Adults and Adults should be kept in all screen cages. The cage should be kept vertical, not horizontal. Cage size recommendation 18" x 18" x 36" But general rule is bigger is always better. The cages should be kept with foliage and sturdy climbing and perching sights and branches. Ficus and Hibiscus are good plants. We use paper towels on the bottom of the cage, easier for cleaning and no chance of the chameleons eating a substrate during feeding. It also helps me to monitor fecal matter. Chameleons are solitaire animals and should be house individually once they hit about 6 months old. They should only be kept together during a breeding session…and PLEASE do not breed blood related chameleons!!!!!!!!

Temperature and Humidity:
The ideal temperature for Panthers should be 70F to 75F, with a basking area to reach 90F to 95F. A 10 degree temperature drop at night is recommended.

The ideal humidity range should be at 40% to 50%. We accomplish this by frequently misting the leaves of the cage with a spray bottle. We use very warm water and my chameleons enjoy the shower on themselves as well.

Lighting:Panther chameleons require UV radiation lighting in order to metabolize calcium. They also need a heat lamp in on corner where they can bask for heat. We use ZooMed REPTISUN 5.0 UVB light and a 60 watt heat bulb. Babies should have lower wattage basking areas, to only use 30 to 40 watt blubs.

Feeding and Hydration:
Our chameleons are fed daily. We gut load our crickets, waxworms and mealworms with Nature Zone Cricket Bites and Sticky Tongue Farms Mineral All. Make sure you are gut loading your insects with a calcium supply. I put about 5 - 6 crickets in the cage at a time. Babies I feed more frequently. Twice a day. Most chameleons will eat right from your hand if you hold the insect very still.

Chameleons will NOT drink standing water. They get their source of water from Dew and Rain in their natural environment. We immitate this by using a drip system in one corner of my cage, drip water for them two to three times a day. They get their drink from the leaves, use a tupperwear dish underneath the dripping area to catch the waste and dispose the old water daily.

Please remember, chameleons can become very stressed if handled too much and if they are left living withother chameleons.